​Work  Up  The  Trippy   Gaited Horse
By Gaye  DeRusso
 
No one tells  you.  But  if  you  ride enough  gaited  horses,  you  know that some can be  quite trippy. There  can be  many   causes.  But I  want  to share with  you, how  I  would work  one up  to  find the cause. This is  for tripping with the front feet, if it’s your horses back feet read the article on stifles. If the horse is constantly falling down,  this is unsafe and get the vet first but read what you should have the vet check for, at the bottom of this article. 
 
1.   X-ray  its  front feet. It’s not that expensive  and worth every penny .   The only  way   to know if the feet are the issue  is  to see  what’s inside of them. It’s also very helpful   for your shoer  or trimmer. We have found  navicular, ringbone,  thin soles, foot unbalanced, toes too long, wrong angles with the shoeing, to name a  few. Get those feet x-rayed. 
 
2. Poke the horses front feet with a pen. Some horses  cannot feel their feet well or they  have been nerved. If your poking and  there  is no reaction get the vet out to check him. 
 
3. If this was a show horse, they may not know how to handle the terrain on trail, and they may have  had heavy shoes all their life, without that weight some do not lift their feet as high. It may take  a year for them to adjust. So, condition them and give them time. 
 
4.  A horse from a different state may not handle the terrain well, it can take up to a year for them to figure it out and get in condition to handle it. Going from flat to constant hills is quite strenuous.  So, condition them and give them time. 
 
5.  Watch the  horse walk. Some just  do not pick  their feet up much. Read my article on the daisy clipper. If the horse keeps their  feet  low, I  make sure the shoer takes the  toe back as much as they can and I have  the shoer roll  the toe,  if that fails, rocker the  shoe  and if that fails  a square shoe or natural  balance  shoe.  These  things help  the horse break  over the front  feet easier  and  by having less  toe, they  get  more clearance  off the ground. If all fail  and  your positive that  is the cause,  then add weight  to the shoe, as horses usually lift  their feet higher when they have  added  weight, and  a heavier shoe is safer  than  a horse  falling  down.  
 
6.  Teach them how to use their feet. Some horses just have no idea.  Use  poles.  I start  with 4 in a circle like you see in my videos and add more over time.  Lunge  them over them  and  watch. Do  they step  on them, do  they  trip   on  them  and or  do  they  fall  over them. Start  out at a walk  and  then have  them go faster.  Watch everything  or video  and watch later.  Watch if they  pay  attention,  watch   if  they can figure out what to do,  watch how  they  balance  themselves, watch how  they use  their head and neck and how they use all their legs, because  your life  depends  on them  picking up   those feet.  Sometimes they just don't  have good proprioception  or out  of  shape  and no   muscle and sometimes they just can't do it for medical reasons. So,  use the poles 3-5 times a week for 5-10 minutes. In a month they  should be  pretty   good at  going over the poles, if not, time  to call the vet. If they are better keep it up  until they  no  longer trip on the trail anymore. Some will need to do it for the rest of their life to help. 
 
7.  Pacey horses and horses that just gait when loose,  may  not pick  their feet up high  and  can  trip  more. So, teach the pacey horse to trot. Use cavaletti poles, these are poles in a row. Make the poles about 12 inches apart.  Then you  can make them closer or farther  away depending on the horse’s stride.  Start with 4 and once they understand what to do keep adding more until they start to trot. Do it 3-5  times a week, until they start trotting some when loose. Trotty horses pick their feet up higher. Even if they never trot when loose it will still make them more surefooted and agile. 
 
8.  Ride with some speed and purpose. Some trip because they are just lazy or bored. So, wake them up, gait or canter every 10 minutes or so or when you feel them not paying attention. Make them walk over branches and rocks, give them things to do and make sure when going over tree roots, that they are paying attention to their feet. Even a little tap with a stick before going over obstacles can keep them awake. 
 
9. Check your saddle fit. If it doesn't fit well, it can cause compression on their spine and their nerves which can cause them to trip.
 
10. Ride them with engagement and keeping  them  light on  their front end. Horses that are strung out will have more weight on their front end so it’s easier to trip  and they are more likely to fall all the way down to the ground because all the weight is  up front.  When more weight is on the backend, horses are less likely to trip or if they do trip, less likely to fall all the way down. 
 
11. Keep a diary and write in it after every ride, so  you  don't   forget. You may see a pattern after enough rides, such as he tripped after we rode 3 hours. No tripping today we rode for 1 hour.  This may mean the horse is not in good enough condition  or  needs  more breaks. Or he tripped every time we walked on gravel, and he keeps walking on  the sides of the trail. This can mean his feet are sore and if barefoot he needs shoes for protection or pads to protect his soles. Some horses have such  thin soles that  boots will never give enough  support.  Or he only tripped once on a root, this could be normal as he didn't see  it and of course we all trip. Tripping occasionally on something and catching themselves is normal, but tripping and falling down is not. So, if he trips, falls down and lays there and starts eating, could mean he is very lazy and needs to be woken up more on the trail. 
 
12. Have someone else ride them. Did  they trip? If  they didn't it could be how your riding or that you are throwing off the horse's  balance. 
 
13.  If he  only trips in groups, it can be your riding too  close so he cannot see what’s  in   front of  his  feet or he  doesn't pay  attention   when  riding  behind. So,  try  riding lead,  if   no tripping  then its him not paying attention. 
 
14.  Have  a chiropractor or body worker work on your horse once a  week for a  month. This should help if  they soreness or muscle  tension that  is causing the tripping. 
 
15.  Call the vet. Have the vet check the eyes first so  they don't  forget. My Horse Tilly has cataracts, so I know she cannot always see the footing well  and I have to help her.  Have them check the horse’s neck,  and spine many gaited horses get neck arthritis which can cause tripping. Also,  they will find if the horses back is sore which could mean poor  saddle fit. Make sure the horse can feel its  front feet, they usually poke them with a pen. You want a full checkup. If the horse is lethargic, you  may  need labs to see if  it is  anemic or has other  issues.  And yes, I hear you,   have them do  a  neurologic exam  and  check   for EPM and  for tick related diseases. But many vets will  just start with EPM  and if it  comes  back positive, they  don't check for anything else. This  is a mistake as  many  horses are carriers of EPM  and don't actually have it. So, get a spinal tap if  positive and make sure  that it  is really  positive.  Otherwise,  the horse may still trip after EPM  treatment  as that was never the real  cause. And the medication has some anti-inflammatory  effects so you may think it helped  until  the horse gets off the meds and the tripping comes back. So, guide them on what you want them to do and do not just test for EPM. Your life can depend on the right diagnosis and the right treatment. But you have to be proactive to figuring it out. 

​Single File
By Gaye DeRusso
 
Ever watch animals traveling such as cows or horses. You will usually see they are in a single file on smaller trails, and if they are grouping up there are more in the middle then the front or the back. To be towards the front but with others around you is the safest for survival. 
 
With one looking out in front and one looking out in back the middle horses have more chance to survive an attack.  In the wild, a mare is usually in front, and the stallion is in the back to try and protect the herd. 
 
So, with riding what is most natural is to have a lead mare lead the ride and a strong confident gelding in the back. This will make it a calmer trail ride. 
 
If you have a weak leader and or, a weak horse in the back, the trail ride can become chaotic due to the unbalance. The horse in front keeps spooking and the horse in the back keeps spooking because they are not confident in their job, which makes all the horses in the middle feel unsafe. Then they all start acting up.
 
If you watch your horses’ ears, you will see what they are paying attention to. The lead  horse's  ears  always go  forward to listen to what is ahead. The last horse's ears always go back to listen to what is coming up. When they are experienced and confident they just listen and may give warnings to the other horses that something is coming.
 
 But when they are not confident, they become very spooky and begin spooking at everything because they are unsure of themselves, unsure of their job in helping the herd and become overwhelmed with anxiety very fast. 
 
It is similar to people walking through a haunted house in an amusement park, you know something is coming from the front or the back but you don't know what it will be. So, you get very scared and jumpy and begin to scream and run from everything even when it’s your friend tapping you on the back. 
 
Horses are happiest when they feel safe and that’s when they perform their best for us. So, when starting out a ride its best to be single file with a good leader and a good follower in the back, so they are confident and not fighting for their place in the line. It makes it more organized and less chaotic. 
 
Once the horses have been working for 30 min or more and are calm, then you can try switching up places. But just know if you are going to lead or go last, you and your horse need to be confident. You can fake it for short periods of time, but if you and your horse start to become nervous go back in the middle so you do not upset the trail ride. 
 
If you start out walking side by side and the horses are not experienced or confident, the two horses do not have a leader, especially if you are not paying attention. And therefore, the horses can be more spooky and reactive. They may also act up more as they are fighting for their spot. Usually, one will keep trying to slow down and one may keep going faster because they want to follow one another and the stronger horse will take on the lead, and the weaker or follower horse wants to go behind because that is where they feel comfortable. 
 
 
If you want to have a calm safe ride. Do what the horses do naturally. Start out at a forward but not crazy speed. By going forward, you will wear off some anxious energy the horses have.
 
Go single file with a good leader in front and a good non spooky horse in the back. Put all the spooky unexperienced horses and riders in the middle and then once you have worked some energy off and the horses are calm, you can start switching places or riding side by side. But never forget the horses feel safer in somewhat of a line, so if they are getting nervous go back to single file until they calm back down. 

​It’s Not The Bit
By Gaye DeRusso
 
So many people will ask what bit I am using. I use many different bits. It usually  depends on what the horse likes, and what frame I need to ride the horse in, to help it to gait. There is no magic gaited bit. Bits can help but it is teaching the horse how to respond to a bit that helps the most. 
 
But what I don't do, is just put bits in the horse’s mouth without the horse understanding what the bit is. So many gaited horses are not trained slowly. Everything is rushed, from their growing to their training to the speed we ride them at. So many short cuts, oh so many. 
 
The reason they don't kill more people is  because of how they are bred. Calm, tolerant and forgiving and yet we expect more from them. One of the biggest problems I see with the gaited horse is they have no concept of how they should react to a bit, because they were never taught. 
 
I restart gaited horses all the time because I know they  have no education about the bit. The bit is to give communication between you and  your horse, so they understand what you want. Without you being able to communicate to them on speed, slowing down and steering, you really have no control, no matter what you put in their mouth. 
 
So, they all go into a snaffle bit when they arrive and learn about pressure and release and giving to the bit. They learn that  pressure on the  bit means to pay attention,  slow down and to give to the bit, which is the opposite of pulling on the bit. 
 
I do lots of patterns to teach them to steer well with the bit, I do lots of one rein stops and then two rein stops with lots of backing up. So, in time they understand when they feel pressure on the bit they need to give to the bit and if no leg is applied, then they should  stop and back off of it. 
 
This takes many, many repetitions. But without this knowledge the horse will never truly understand the bit and will just pull on it or avoid the pressure by throwing their head or hanging their tongue out or possibly just running away from the pressure. But with understanding, they will calmly react to the pressure and then perform the right movement to have the pressure going away. 
 
That’s why you do not see trained horses acting a fool when someone puts pressure on the bit. But since so many gaited horses are not trained well and many people just drive them forward and pull on the bit to get the gait, the horse doesn't understand that the bit should mean slow down and back off. Instead, the horse is thinking it should just pull on the bit, because that is what it has been taught. 
 
So, if you are having issues with your horse running away, throwing its head, hanging its tongue out, or no bit works. Go back and restart the horse with a loose ring snaffle, or a full cheek snaffle if it does not steer very well as the bars on the side help to steer the horse. 
 
Teach them to just walk, do one rein stops, make patterns, lots of walking and stopping and transitions up and down in speed. Then when you can do all of that in an arena or round pen well, you can change to a shank bit if you want. 
 
I think a mild shank bit is easier for most riders and gives more control  for the trail but practice it all again in the shank with lighter contact and once your horse can respond calmly and is controlled then try it out on the trail. 
 
I usually use a form of a myler bit if the horse is pacey and wonder bits if trotty, as the myler helps bring the head down and the wonder helps to frame them up. In time if they respond well, you can ride them in most anything, but the shank does give you more control for the trails. Trail riding is extremely dangerous and unpredictable at times, you will be able to stop the horse faster in a shank vs a snaffle especially if you are an older woman with not much strength. 
 
In the end it’s up to you what you ride the gaited horse in. There is no special gaited bit, some are just fine bitless or in a hackamore, but whatever you are going to use, you still need to educate your horse on what the bit is and how to react to pressure. Because if the horse does not understand and know how to respond to a bit, you will never have the communication you desire and you will never feel truly safe. 

​Buddy Sour
By Gaye DeRusso
 
So, your horse is buddy sour. It happens to the best of them. They live with the same horse, you ride them with the same horse, they are best friends. Now they can't live without them. They are truly bonded because they do everything together and now, they feel if they separate, they won't survive, because their best buddy won't be there. 
 
Some horses are just more prone to it because they have a needy personality. They are not independent and have always been with other horses and or ridden with other horses. Others not as much because they have been alone or ridden alone, and after not dying, they figured out they can actually survive on their own, although most prefer to have a friend. 
 
Now some even though they have been independent and alone, meet that one special horse and they have a fatal attraction towards it. Many times, it’s a gelding and a mare. So romantic until it’s not and they start screaming nonstop when you take them apart. Either one or the other or sometimes both, start losing their minds. The one in the paddock starts running around like a nut job, charging the fence and may even threaten to jump it to get to the other horse. The one you have taken out, might also act nutty and not be able to focus and constantly screaming to the other horse, it might even try to buck or rear to get you off and get back to their friend. Ugh what to do.
 
Well, it’s not surprising they get buddy sour. Because as I mentioned above, they are with each other all the time and you just come out for a couple hours here and there to take care of them and ride them, but the rest of the time, it is just them. Two buddies looking to get sour. They find comfort with each other, they groom each other, they protect each other and hold each other's hooves when they get scared. Then they become inseparable. 
 
There are many ways to try and deal with this problem, you just have to try and see what works for you. I have many horses that come in buddy sour, but I have much more time than you, since I am at the barn all day. But I can tell you, they all get better with the right program.
 
If you’re in a boarding stable, the easiest thing to do is separate them. Put them in stalls or paddocks pretty far away from each other. Sure, I know it’s easier to have them close, but being close is the problem. So first you must admit it’s a problem and come up with a plan and that’s to separate them if possible. They have to learn they can survive without their friend. There are other friends around, but being with that one horse is just not good for them mentally because they got so attached. 
 
Once you separate them, they will drive everyone nuts, screaming and yelling to each other, but in time it will become less and less and then stop. You of course will probably still ride together if it’s your other horse or a friend’s horse, but just not stalling them by each other can make a huge difference. When you ride together start to make it more uncomfortable to be together. If in the arena, ride them around separately and if they pull together, then have one canter circles around the other one while it gaits, canter 3 circles one way, do a roll back and canter 3 circles the other way, repeat for 10-20 min then separate them at opposite sides and rest them away from one another. Repeat with the other horse cantering. Anything they hate to do, do it by the other horse, in time if you do it long enough and hard enough, they will realize the other horse is giving them more work and they will want to get away from it and rest.
 
 If your horse hates balloons, put balloons on the other horse and chase the horse that hates balloons. Carry a flag, a bag, a tarp anything they do not like, of course you must be able to ride well, and the horse must be desensitized and safe to do so before you chase the other horse with them. But you get the idea, anything that would make the one horse not want to be by the other horse. Then rest them apart, but anytime they want to be together while you’re riding, you let them get together and then you show them it’s not a good idea. They have to come to the understanding themselves, that their buddy is not a good place to be by, when someone is riding it. It could take 1 time, or it can take 1000 times depending on the horses and how buddy sour they are. 
 
If on trail, if room you can do a similar exercise, or try bending one direction then the other while gaiting or cantering, doing leg yields, shoulder in, haunches in, rollbacks anything you can think of, then separate them slightly and walk and relax, repeat every time they get close together. It will take time and endurance on your part to see it through, but again if you do it right, they will start not wanting to be so close together. When they start behaving and listening then you can start lightening up on the exercises and enjoy the ride but anytime they start getting drawn to each other, you must come up with things to do so they do not want to be by one another.
 
Now at home, if possible, split the pasture, so they are not together all the time, and take them apart for hours at a time. Then daily, if possible, take them away from each other for a couple of hours. It may be extremely difficult to get the horse to leave the other at home so you might need a trainer or a strong rider but take that horse out on the trail for a couple hours. When you separate the horses, you may worry that the one left may hurt itself and it just might, so it’s best to put it somewhere there is less chance. Like a stall or a round pen with high walls, somewhere too high to jump and too small to get much speed. Bring treats, grain, whatever it likes, or ride out and get off and graze for an hour, so the horse wants to leave the other horse. When you get back, do not feed grain, or treats or graze if possible. And then take the other horse out and repeat. So, in the end they will have 4 hours or more apart. 
 
You can even ride one horse and chase the other horse in the pasture. That's right, ride in their pasture where they think you would never ride them. But chase the other horse, pretend it’s a cow and start maneuvering that horse all over. Then rest apart and repeat as many times as you can. Then switch horses and repeat. It actually can be pretty fun to do. 
 
The more often they are separated the quicker it gets better. If you can't ride, then still separate them, and give them grain or special treats and tie them up away from each other. Turn up the radio so you can't hear them scream and let them stand tied while you do other work for a couple of hours. In time it will get better, but you have to put the work in. If they spend 24/7 together and  you take one out once a month and try to ride and it screams and acts up the whole time, you can't blame the horse, you can only blame yourself. If you get mad and sell one of the horses and get another one, even the new horse can become barn sour, because of the conditions you have it living in. So always try to separate the horses daily if possible. 
 
It’s a very hard problem to deal with and happens to so many horses. That’s why it is always a good thing to take the horses out separately. I have seen so many people ponying another horse, or bringing another horse on the trailer to events because they are buddy sour. All that does is make the buddy sour issue worse. You have to go through the bad part to get to the good part. So yes, they have to scream, throw a fit and act a fool for weeks to months to get them to become independent and not worry about that other horse, but if you don't, it will just be worse in another year and harder to fix. 
 
I separate all my horses daily; all get worked alone and with other horses. Some of course get attached and scream and run and paw when their friends leave, but in time they are ok with it, because I don't give in and the other horse in time is happy to leave its friend because they are rewarded. 
 
So, if you have a buddy sour horse, first you have to admit it’s a problem then come up with a plan. Even if you have to rotate horses in different stalls or pastures every couple of weeks, then that’s what you do, so they are always getting a new best buddy and getting away from the old best buddy. Start riding them separately or with different friends. Show them that being ridden together is not always a good thing.
 
But leaving them together if they are attached and doing nothing about it is emotional bad for them. And if that other horse dies or needs to go to the vet clinic for something, your horse that is home will be unprepared on how to deal with it. The emotional stress it will cause will be harder for that horse then learning slowly over time that its ok if that other horse leaves, because it always comes back. 
 
 
 
 
 

​The Flat Walk - The Foundation Gait
By Gaye DeRusso
 
The flat walk is the first gait of most gaited horses. It is a 4-beat gait, that is a fast walk. It is similar to an extended walk in the regular trotting horse. 
 
Although it is the first gait of many gaited horses, not many riders practice the flat walk. Many riders just walk, then go into their horse's intermediate gait. For many horses, this is part of the problem why they are not gaiting well, because they do not have the foundation of the flat walk. 
 
The flat walk can be called different names, including the flat-footed walk. It is the same thing so do not be confused. When a horse does a flat walk, it does not land heel to toe, its foot lands flat and that is why it is called a flat walk or flat-footed walk. It is similar in footfall to the regular walk but is faster and ranges from 3-7 mph. 
 
Horses will nod their heads up and down with the flat walk more than they do in the regular walk. It is an energetic brisk walk, with the horse driving from the back end. It is a 4 -beat gait, with each hoof leaving and hitting the ground separately.
 
In the saddle, it may be completely smooth or if overstride you will feel a back-and-forth motion. It is a comfortable gait, and one most gaited horses can do for long periods of time. 
 
So why is it important?
 
 It is the first gait. It is the one that teaches your horse to separate its legs, lift its legs up separately, and travel in the same speed. It will build your horses gaiting muscles, it will build your horses topline and teach your horse how to engage and use its backend. 
 
So many times, when I am talking to people about the flat walk, they think it is not a gait at all. They just think it’s a walk. It is a gait, that  is a fast walk, and one you need to perfect.
 
Once you have a good flat walk and your horse can hold it for long periods of time staying the same speed, the other gaits are so much easier to get. This is because the horse understands the concept but also has the muscle memory. 
 
To get a running walk is not hard, once you have a good flat walk. All you have to do is just start going a little faster. Then once conditioned you can go even faster. There is no special cue to get the running walk, you just add more leg and do a faster flat walk. That is your running walk. 
 
To get a saddle gait from a flat walk, you add more leg and the horse will shorten its stride and then if it understands well it will go faster into your saddle gait. To get a fox trot you round the horse out more to help it go diagonal and add more leg to go faster and your horse should fall into a fox trot.  
 
 The running walk is  the same footfall as the flat walk, just faster. That is why it is so important that your horse's flat walk is set, and it can hold it for long periods of time in different terrains, on the flat and going up hills. 
 
It is the gait that I use most on the trail, as the horse can travel for long periods of time at this gait and not get tired. Then I do some running walk and saddle gait and rack but not for long periods of time as those are harder on the horse’s body.
 
To get a flat foot walk, you first must have a good regular walk (or what some call a trail walk, or dog walk), with all legs lifting and landing separately. Then you just ride with light contact, with the horse in neutral carriage and ask for some engagement and speed by squeezing with your calves or pushing with your seat, till you get a faster speed. 
 
Then you practice over and over until the horse is able to understand and hold it for longer periods of time. Then you start making patterns, doing lateral work such as circles and leg yields, all at the flat walk. Ride the trail in the flat walk, but always giving the horse breaks to rest or loosening the rein and contact for them to stretch out for a while and then practice again. 
 
If you skip the flat walk, you are skipping part of your horse’s education. Therefore, the horse may not understand how to move its legs separately, hold the same speed or engage itself when gaiting. So, when you go faster to your intermediate gait of the running walk or saddle gait, or fox trot, your horse may pace or trot.
 
Again, this is because they do not understand what to do and are not conditioned to do the next gait. But if you teach the flat walk and work at it for long periods of time, your horse will understand more and be in better condition to do the next gait. So, when you ask for speed, it is not that hard for them to understand the concept. Then if they get pacey or trotty you can slow down and use some lateral moves such as a shoulder in or leg yield to get them to do the next gait. 
 
How long do you practice the flat walk? 
 
For younger horses, if you want to have great gaits, you should not rush it. Many trainers will only flat walk for years. Just building their horse's muscles, until the horse can do it without much help in self-carriage. But that does not happen overnight, it takes years. 
 
They do this, so when they go to the next gait, it is pretty easy to get the running walk, saddle gait or fox trot. But without a good flat walk, these gaits can be very difficult to get and hold. 
 
So, if you have been trying to get your horse to gait well and have failed. Take a step back, go back and make sure your flat walk is strong. Make sure your horse really understands what to do and condition your horse. Work on it for many months to years and then you may find, your next gait is oh so easy to get. 

​I'm Not Your Old Horse
By Gaye DeRusso
 
Great horses take many years in the making. When your horse finally turns into that great trail horse that is dependable, controllable and you both understand each other so well, you forget all the years and hard work that it took to get him or her there.
 
That’s right we forget. We forget that the horse did not understand us and it took them a long time to figure out what we wanted and what their job was. But they finally figure it out and then you have many years of safe, fun trail riding. 
 
Then the day finally comes that they cannot do it anymore and you have to retire them. So, you start your search for your next buddy. But so much has changed in all the years you spent with your older great horse. 
 
Prices have tripled, you are now older and maybe not in as good of shape. Your confidence was great on your old horse but when you are trying new ones, you are quite nervous. 
 
As you try and steer them and give them cues of what you want, they don't understand you and therefore do not do what you want. It’s not them, it’s you. Your old horse figured out what you wanted even though you gave the wrong cues. These new horses your trying, don't understand what you want, because you are giving the wrong cues. It’s not them it’s you. 
 
One horse after the other that you go look at, disappoint you. Nope not what I am looking for. And then you think you will never find another horse like your old horse. And your right, you won't because you made that old horse. He didn't come like that, through time and making mistakes you came to understand each other over the years. And you forgot all the frustrating times you had in the process. The mistakes you made. 
 
If you want to have a great horse, you have to understand that no matter how good the horse is, you have to be able to communicate and understand each other. You have to get use to each other’s emotions, fears and physical abilities. And that takes time. 
 
So, no you will never find a horse like your old horse. You have to make another one. But you have to understand, you are not the same as you were 15 years ago, so you may need a better trained, calmer and slower horse.  You may need some lessons, so you learn how to do things correctly. It will only help you make a better connection to the new horse and make the process go more safely and smoothly. 
 
No two horses are the same even if they are related. Sure, you can have your horse’s baby, but still, it will not be exactly the same. 
 
You must come to the realization that it will take time and work to get another great horse. It is a journey. Embrace the journey. 
 
Because I am not your old horse. 

​Your Horse Feels Everything
By Gaye DeRusso
 
Your horse can feel a fly, which makes him twitch his skin to make it go away. Yet you climb on from the ground and when the saddle slides you shove it back over with your weight. You pick up your reins and you yank him left and you yank him right. You yank on the bit to stop and yank harder to back up. He won't stand still so you just keep yanking. 
 
Many times, our horses are on overload, and we have no idea.   Many  get upset with us and all the stimulus we are giving them because the horse feels everything. He not only feels you physically but emotionally, so if your mind is running loose or you are thinking about life issues as you are riding and not focused, he is feeling all of it underneath you. 
 
You lean to the side as you turn around to talk with your friends, with your weight totally unbalanced on his back and never give it a second thought. All the while your horse is just trying to balance your weight.
 
The horse feels everything, so there is no need to yank or pull harder if you teach them what you want. There is no reason to shove your saddle over if you can loosen it and put it in place or tighten the girth more before you get on and use a log or mounting block. 
 
If you are doing these things, it is time to stop and become a better rider. Because your horse can only do so much to help you, and it can only tolerate so much. Many times, that is why your horse is acting up. He is trying but you just keep hurting him in the process and giving him stimulus that you are totally unaware of. 
 
The horse is a gift, and we should treat him as one. We need to teach the horse cues, so they understand what we want under saddle and then use the lightest touch needed to give those cues.  Always start with the lightest cue and then increase till they understand. But each time go back to the lightest cue, until they make the connection.
 
When you shorten your reins, inch your hands up quietly, and then hold your thumb down on the top of the rein to keep it in place so you don't need to keep shortening them. Or slide one hand down and then the other but no more chucking the reins up to get them shorter because it pulls on the bit each time. 
 
When you steer use your fingers and squeeze on the rein instead of pulling, then relax the fingers, so there is not a constant pull on the horse. When you back up, hold light pressure to tell them backwards, then add leg to say go and release every time they back up a step. In time they will understand to back up just from light pressure, your weight being back and leg.
 
If you teach the horse correctly there will be no reason to yank or kick or hit them. The horse will respond from a light touch, a light cue, they will respond from your energy going up and down, they will respond from you changing your seat position and weight. If they can feel your emotions, they can feel every movement you are making, and some of them are on overload because of what you are doing up there. 
 
More sensitive horses can be controlled many times with just your mind and a look to where you want to go, a thought of going faster or slower, a thought of stopping, or relaxing your body to slow them down. 
 
If you would only give the horse a chance. They would willingly do what you want. They just don't understand and that's why they need to learn cues and you need to give the cues correctly for the communication to work. 
 
Realize they feel everything. They are born that way. If you teach them well and ride soft and balanced, the horse become magical. You can communicate with your breathing, the lightest touch on the rein, a light cue with your seat and leg. But if you do not give them a chance, you are just punishing them with all that extra pressure. Nature gave them a gift, let them use that gift. 
 
This is one example of how sensitive they are. The other day a horse was tense inside the round pen, but there was two of us in there, and two people outside watching. When the client got nervous because the horse was moving fast, I told the people outside to take a deep breath in and out through their mouth and like magic the horse stopped. I told them, he can feel you from more than 20 feet away. He feels everything, so if we all relax, he will relax. So, if a horse can feel you from 20 feet away just imagine what he feels on his back when you ride. 
 
If your horse keeps getting upset or is stuck on go, it maybe that he or she is feeling too much of what you are doing and is on over load. Make sure you are focused and with the horse,  not thinking about what you need to do once you’re done riding or issues you are having in life. 
 
Sometimes just using your seat and breath to stop and a light contact if they don't respond, is all you need to quiet them down. Be more still in the saddle, stay relaxed with a quiet seat. Breathe more and deeply to help them relax. Practice in the arena first to be safe but try to become a quiet relaxed rider if you have a sensitive horse and use the least amount of pressure possible to communicate with your horse. 
 
And never forget the  horse  can feel everything. 

​Mistakes With Gaited Horses - You Need To Read This!
By Gaye DeRusso
 
1. Most gaited horses are not trained well.
 
Before even trying to gait your horse, you should make sure your horse knows the basics. If it doesn’t know the basics, then you do not have the tools to adjust its movement if it does not gait well. 
 
These basics are - understands to give to pressure, gives to the bit, bends in a circle, backs up willingly, has a good stop, moves sideways easily with a cue, can move its shoulders and hindquarters independently of the rest of its body. 
 
In other words, it has a basic foundation to build on. If your horse doesn't know these things, there is no point in trying to gait, it is still in kindergarten. Even if it gaits well, you are going to have  problems with your horse, because you cannot communicate with it. 
 
2.  Most gaited riders are not trained  well. 
 
Before riding a gaited horse, you should know the basics of riding. That means concepts in riding but also physically ready to ride. You should know how to ride with a balanced seat - sit properly on the horse to  help the horse  be balanced.  Know how to cue  your horse to move forward, backwards and sideways with your legs. Know how to use your hands so the horse knows when you want to go forward or sideways. Be able to back your horse up with a light cue and be able to turn your horse with your legs and guide with your hands. Be able to stop your horse well. You should  know how to do a half halt.  Without knowing all these things and  doing them well, you will just confuse your horse. You also may get very hurt because you have no communication with your horse. 
 
Horses are dangerous because they are not machines, but even with machines someone teaches you how to use it. Remember somebody showed you how to turn a car on, and how to drive a car which seems so easy now. But without knowing how to do those things you would just be sitting in the car looking around being confused. 
 
But  someone did show you how to turn the car on and apply the gas and breaks before you went on the road. Then you practiced in a parking lot then a road before going on the highway.
 
 If you just got in and go it turned on and went on the highway, well you probably would not be reading this today. But that's what I think of when I see people who do not know how to ride, flying down the trail on their gaited horse. 
 
3. Horses that are not bred well do not gait well. 
 
All those cheap horses out there and all the ones that are cheaper on auction, usually do not have the talent to gait well unless, they have a knowledgeable rider to help them. If you do not have a clue, be careful of the cheap horses and careful of auctions in general, just be careful.  Those horses either do not gait well or just got out of prison for killing their previous owner. 
 
All gaited horses do not just gait. They have to have good breeding for them to gait easily. That takes a good breeder and breeding good horses cost the breeder a lot of money. So of course, these horses cost more, but they are usually much easier to train and ride. 
 
4. Young, gaited horse are not for inexperienced riders or people with poor horsemanship skills. 
 
To train a young horse, you need to have a plan, not wing it every day. You want to build a foundation and then build on that foundation you built. It is a slow steady process with many setbacks. Some days are great, and some days are horrible, you need to know that going into it. Even the best horses can act up, but a young horse has less tolerance and is more athletic, so many times when they do act up even if it is rarely, it is bigger and scarier. They are  faster, buck harder and rear higher because they can. So, make sure you have a plan to follow, a trainer to help you and you are up to the challenge of years in the making. A young horse will not care that you had a bad day at work. 
 
5.  The better the horse gaits and the more experienced the gaited horse is, in the job you want it to do, the more fun you will have. 
 
If you have no clue what you are doing, you need a baby sitter to start. It will keep you safe, build your confidence and show you the ropes. But this is the horse you need lessons on. So when it can no longer be ridden, you are more experienced and a better rider. Otherwise, you should always have a baby sitter horse because you will never progress from that stage. 
 
6. Gaited horses need to practice gaiting. 
 
If you only gait once in a while or you have trails you cannot gait on, well your horse even if it gaited well may lose its gaits. It needs to practice and stay in condition to gait well. The only way to do that, is to practice gaiting every time you ride it, and you should ride it at least a couple  times a week. 
 
If you do not, you will not be able to fix it once it loses its gaits, because it needs a knowledgeable gaited rider and to get in condition to get the gait back. So best to keep the gait and not  lose it. 
 
7. Horses that just gait, horses that gait but fall into a trot, horses that gait but fall into a pace and horse that gait but fall into a trot or pace are not the same. 
 
All these horses above, need different speeds and frames and different amounts of  collection and or inversion to keep them in gait. If you ride a pacing horse like one the falls into a trot, you are just making it worse not better. Same if you ride one that falls into a trot like a pacing horse. 
 
8. Collection affects your gaited horse, good and bad.
 
Most gaited horses need some kind of collection to gait well. They do not gait well in a strung-out frame. Too much collection and many do not gait well, too little and many will not gait well. It’s a fine line, because these are not regular trotting horses, so you do not ride them like they are. 
 
You do not drive a Porsche like you drive a truck.  The people who tell you all horses are the same, do not truly understand the gaited horse. 
 
9. Listening to  people who tell you your horse is lame. 
 
Gaited horses move differently, that's why they can gait. They move different under saddle but also when loose. Many swap their back lead when cantering if unbalanced, and or bunny hop, many have loose stifles and their stifles will lock up when not conditioned, many drag their front toes or their back toes.
 
 If not bred well many have crooked legs,  wringing hocks, sickle hocks, or cow hocked. Many toe out or toe in, tight rope walk, come down in their pasterns farther and yes, bob their head when gaiting. Some are hyper flexible and swing their hind legs out in turns when spun around in hand or park out or stand comfortably on 2 legs. They even stand with legs crossed or all legs pointed a different direction. Any horse when pacing hard, usually looks lame and abnormal. Many switch gaits so fast or do half canter half gait, so if it’s an odd step here and there, it’s usually not lame its just doing a gait a lope or a gaited thing. 
 
To know if it is lame, you must educate yourself and your vet and also your trainer about what is normal and abnormal for the gaited horse. 
 
10. They are bred calm, never forget that. 
 
The only reason so many beginners get these horses are because they are bred to be so calm and willing. Yet this is also the downfall for the gaited horse and rider. It is the reason so many of these horses are abused or have no training on them before they are sold. 
 
They are then sold to someone who does not know how to ride.  Learning to ride takes many lessons and many, many years to do it well and safely. This mistake will hurt you at some point. You still need to learn how to ride properly. 
 
This is the reason why so many people who should not have a young horse buy one. Because they are not knowledgeable enough, talented enough as a rider and do not have a trainer to fall back on. This mistake can  either ruin the  young horse or get the rider very hurt. Not many other riding disciplines have this option, because the horses would kill them on day one. 
 
Some  gaited horses are so calm, that it makes them not pay attention and makes them trip. Even when they trip, they don't care and some just fall down and lay there like what just happen?
 
You must keep them awake and engaged to keep you  safe if yours is extra calm. Too much of a good thing is not a good thing. 
 
You should read this article many times and share, as I hope it helps someone from making a horrible mistake. Gaited horses are still horses, but they are not the same as non-gaited horses. 
 
 

​Steps To Fix The Pacing Gaited Horse Part 1
By Gaye DeRusso
 
The pace is a gait most of us do not want under saddle. It is when the gaited horse swings both legs on the same time together then a moment of suspension and then they swing the legs on the other side. It is not a smooth ride and therefore unwanted under saddle. Besides being uncomfortable, it can also make your horse trippy and less surefooted. The pacey horse  will  swing  its legs instead of picking  its  legs up and placing them down,  so easier to catch their toes on obstacles and uneven footing. 
 
 It is bred into many gaited horses to help them gait but  you must teach the horse to gait, by teaching it a new way to  use its body which takes time. Do not worry if they pace when loose or lunging it is natural for them and will not undo what you are teaching them under saddle. 
 
 It takes work to get them to do the gait correctly but worth the work to fix it and not worry about hard pacing again. The horse has to be able to understand how to use its body and what you are asking them to do,  in order to not pace and gait well. Then they have to be conditioned to use the correct muscles, so they do not go back to  pacing once you have corrected it. I call it the right thing to do not the easy thing to do.  Remember that, it will not be easy, but it is the right thing to do, to teach them to gait correctly. 
 
 It is best to start in an arena or flat pasture to be consistent vs trail. Also, you need to establish your walk and then your flat walk first which is just a fast walk before going to faster gaits such as the fox trot, running walk or saddle gait. Otherwise, you will always be chasing the gait. From this day forward when under saddle never, ever, let the horse pace again or it will be confused on what you want and always try to pace because it is easy for them to do so.
 
 So, say it out loud  "from this day forward we will never pace again. " Very good, now I will tell you how, but remember it will not be easy but totally worth the effort and time to get a smooth gait. If this article is too long for you to get through, read parts of it each day. If your unwilling to read it all or break it up and read parts, then fixing the pace will be even harder for you. Using heavy shoes or angles or long feet is what many do to fix the pace but that is the easier way-out vs teaching the horse to correctly use its body to get the gait which takes time and patience. 
 
If you follow this steps consistently and do it correctly, your horse will start gaiting. 
 
First make sure your horse is taught the basics so it will understand your cues when you start to go faster. It needs a foundation to build on. That means teach it how to give to the bit, bend its body around a curve or circle,  serpentine, leg yield, shoulder in and teach a good whoa and back up. Without the horse knowing how to do these things it will be much harder to fix. 
 
Always warm up well, it is helpful to lunge or round pen or run your pacey horse around loose for 5- 10 minutes, otherwise they will be more pacey under saddle because they need to get the tension and excitement out to be able to relax and gait. So, if you don't you are just making it harder for you to correct the horse and will have more frustration. 
 
Ride with their head low, that’s why it is important to teach them to give to the bit first. You usually want their head level or below the front of the saddle or below your belly button. This will help relax their muscles, they need to tense up their muscles  in order to pace. That's why so many throw their heads up and invert their backs, because that makes it easy to pace. 
 
Start in an arena and just walk with their head low, make circles and patterns, the more lateral work you do the less pacey they will be when you go faster. So, a good warm up at the walk with their head low for at least 10 minutes. If they will not walk, you need that to fix that first. So, teach your horse one rein stops or make a small circle every time they speed up until they can consistently do a slow walk. 
 
The gait starts at the walk, without a good walk you won't get a good gait. So, they must be able to do a clear 4 beat walk to get a good gait. If they cannot, walk your horse over poles, the pacier they are the more poles you should use. But lunge them over them  first in case  they trip, once they figure the poles out, which may take a couple weeks, you can start riding them  over them. ( Place poles about 3 feet apart, closer if horse continues to pace like a foot apart)
 
You can use garden timber poles from home depot or a garden store, they are not very expensive, PVC poles do not work, they are too light and break. 
 
If very pacey set your poles up in a 15–20-meter circle and just continue to walk in a circle 5 minutes one way and 5 minutes the other way after you have already warmed them up with your lateral work. Try to use your half halts and leg to keep the horse out of the pace, even if you must do it every step and keep the horse bending around the circle. Any time it paces, stop immediately and back up 5 steps fast and go forward again; to tell the horse, the pace is the wrong answer and will give you more work if you do it again. 
 
Once they can walk over the poles and are no longer pacing at the slow walk, you can begin to ask for more speed. Stay in a circle instead of going straight, the circle is a lateral movement that will help separate your horse's  legs and therefore get the horse away from the pace. It  also teaches the horse how to use its back legs, to step under itself which is called engagement and drive with power. 
 
So, after your good lunging and warm up at the walk, you ride your horse at a walk in your circle with your horse’s head down and ask it for more speed. In your brain think a faster walk not a gait otherwise you will ask for too much. You just want the horse to walk faster without pacing. As you walk faster, if very pacey go over the poles, otherwise if not pacey, you can make your circle around the poles and then aim for poles if it starts to pace. 
 
Keep the horse bent as you walk faster, pressing with one calf and then the other to extend the walk. Use a dressage whip if the horse does not go forward well to encourage the walk and give light taps to reinforce your leg. If the horse tries to raise its head, hold pressure then release when it puts it down. If the horse tries to cut in or out hold it in the circle with your legs and hands. If it starts to go too fast half halt every step or every other step but still pressing with the leg lightly so it does not stop. You will have to practice and figure out how much pressure your horse needs from your hands and your legs to help them gait. 
 
Once it takes a few faster steps, stop and rest and give a good scratch or small treat. Rest for a minute or two and repeat, each time trying to get more good steps. Again, if it immediately paces stay in the circle over the poles. 
 
If it paces a hard pace, then immediately stop and back up 5 steps, no rest and immediately go forward, this tells the horse don't do that or I will make your life harder. Do this every single time it paces. If it does it by a pole, then just go over the pole but in between poles if it paces stop and backup. If the horse is not getting the message, make sure you stop as fast as you can and add more backup steps like 10. But always stop and rest when you get some good fast walking steps and never rest when it paces.
 
If you do this right and do it 3-5 days a week, your horse will be better in 2 weeks. If it is not getting better, you are doing it wrong and need to figure out which step is wrong. An online lesson can help you figure that out, if you want to contact me. 
 
I want you to practice the faster walk aka flat walk, for 5 minutes each direction then quit working on the gait, but you can work on the canter or walk on the trail. Do not, let me repeat, do not go ride fast on the trail and pace. If you let the horse pace at all anymore it will not understand and it will continue to try and pace and not get better. 
 
Once your horse can do a flat walk each direction well, keeping its head low, with you half halting and keeping leg on to keep the correct speed, then walk around the poles and only use the poles when it loses its gait. So before progressing you should be able to flat walk consistently without the poles each direction for 5 minutes. 
 
Once you can do that, then you always do your flat walk first for 10 minutes or more and then try for your next gait which is their intermediate gait.  You will do the same things for the next gait but ask for more speed by using more leg, then lighten the leg to let them know to stay that speed.
 
You must have guidance or good feel to know what the next gait feels like in order to help your horse know what you want. So, a soft bounce up and down for a fox trot, smooth or back and forth for the running walk, or smooth or a wiggle for your saddle gait. You just repeat the same thing going over poles, resting when they get any steps that are close, remember reward the try and to keep going over the poles when pacey and stopping and backing up and immediately going forward when hard pacing. 
 
Start with 3 minutes each direction working up to 5 minutes each direction for their intermediate gait.   When they can do it well start going around the poles but always have the poles in case, they get pacey. When they can do it well without the poles, then you can start trying to go out of your circle and around the arena. Once they can do that, you can start trying to gait on trail. 
 
If you do not have an arena or flat pasture, you can also do this in a round pen. If you only have trail do not fret, just  look for part 2 coming soon for steps to not pacing on the trail. 
 
 
 
 
 

Fixing The Pacing Gaited Horse Part 2 - Trail
By Gaye DeRusso
 
 
It is best to teach your horse all the previous information I mentioned in part one before heading down the trail. You can teach it in their stall at home or in the parking lot of your trail system if you do not have an arena or round pen, but the more they understand before you go out, the easier it will be. Make sure the horse knows how to give to the bit, bend their body, move forward and sideways off your leg, has a good whoa and a good backup. 
 
Also, if the horse already understands how to gait some and has good speed control it will be so much easier, that’s why the arena is so helpful for the pacey horse. It helps to get  the basics down, so you are able to communicate easier to them and help them understand and be prepared for gaiting on the trail . 
 
Before you start heading down the trail, make sure you are either riding alone or with just a couple people who will let you control the speed and wait for you anytime you need to stop. Otherwise, if you are riding with fast riders or inconsiderate riders, you will not be able to teach your horse. They will make your horse anxious, and you won't be able to go the right speed to stop your horse from pacing.  
 
If you ride with faster riders, your horse will want to pace because that’s all it knows how to do when it goes faster, so you must set it up, so it is easier for your horse to learn and focus on what you are teaching them. Also, it is best to get some energy off of your horse and warm it up with lunging, round pen or running it around in the pasture before you head out on the trail. Warming up their joints and getting rid of extra energy, will help your horse to  focus more but also make them less likely to pace as their body will be more relaxed instead of tense. 
 
So, let’s begin, start at a slow trail walk for the first 10 minutes of the ride, practice your leg yields and serpentine as you are going down the trail. If you know how to do shoulder in, practice that as well, just here and there ask them to do this lateral type of work. Make sure your reins are short enough so you can communicate to them quickly and also so they can feel your half halt any time they try to change speed on their own. 
 
Downhill, makes horses pacey, so every time you go downhill, you will need to help your horse keep from pacing. Use your half halts and give them one every step as you go downhill to help slow them down but also to balance them and get their weight to shift back on their backend. You can also serpentine or leg yield or alternate between the two. Still pacing, then walk a couple steps and stop and stand, then walk a couple more steps and stop and stand. Repeat this down the whole hill if you have to, but whatever you do, do not pace. If your horse still paces, then try and go off trail, into the rough and walk over obstacles, such as branches and rocks as you go down the hill, this will act as natural pole work.
 
Any time you go downhill and then there is a gully and then the trail goes uphill, try to stop at the bottom of the hill and go very slow through the gully and then slowly go back to the same walk as you start going up the hill. If you do not slow down or stop, many horses will pace down the hill and continue to pace up the hill because they want to continue the same motion. So, you need to make your horse understand that it should not pace, and  you will not let it pace. 
 
If on the flat and the horse paces, try stopping and backing up 5 steps then immediately going forward to get it out of the pace. Make sure to tell your friends to stop and wait while you do this. Otherwise, your horse may get anxious from the other horses leaving and it will pace more to catch up. Also don't forget to use your half halts when you feel them trying to pace and to leg yielding back and forth or serpentine when you feel it trying to pace, you can even bend your horse one direction then the other, but you do whatever you have to, to stay out of the pace. Still pacing, get off the trail and ride in the rough. That’s the footing next to the trail, use the rocks, branches, trees etc. as your natural pole work. When not pacing go back on trail and then if your horse starts to pace, go back into the rough. They will figure it out in time that if they do the right movement, you make their life easier not harder. You want to associate the pace with hard work, so they do not want to do it anymore. 
 
You will need to keep repeating all these things as you ride down the trail, half halting, staying a slow speed, doing your lateral movement, slow down hill, stop at the bottom of hills and stopping and backing up if pacing at the slow walk. Riding in the rough and going over obstacles. 
 
At the end of 10 minutes if your horse has a clear 4 beat slow walk you can try and go a little faster into your flat walk, pressing with one leg and then the other to extend their walk. You will repeat everything as above, but going downhill, always do a slow walk and going on the flat and uphill you can go into your flat walk. If your horse cannot do a 4-beat walk slow, then you must continue to only slow walk on the trail until you get a 4-beat slow walk. It should only take a couple weeks if you are doing it correctly and riding enough times on the trail (3-5 times a week). So remember, you must have a good 4 beat slow walk before you progress or you will most likely not get a consistent smooth 4 beat flat walk.
 
Anytime there is a hill, keep your horses head down and keep the same speed by using more leg. Do not let them raise their head up to cheat and do not let them canter or change gaits to get up the hill. The hill naturally collects your horse and puts its weight on its hindquarters, that’s why pacey horses do well on uphill and not so good on flat or down hill.  But you must learn how to collect them and get them on their backend, so you don't always need hills to gait. 
 
The uphill, will help them to get stronger and get your gait to be faster in time if you do it correctly. It will be hard for you and your horse as you need to keep them in a relaxed frame but use your leg to get them to dig those back legs into the ground and push you up the hill. Tilt slightly forward to help free up their back when going uphill. When they do it right, it is an amazing feeling to feel all the power they have in their backend. 
 
Try and flat walk for the next 10-20 minutes, always slower downhill and stopping at the bottom before going back to the flat walk on the flat or on the uphill if that is next. 
 
Remember when they are doing well even a couple steps, stop and rest and then resume your trail ride. Always asking for more steps, but you may have to keep slowing down to get them back in a slow walk then pushing back up to the flat walk after you stop. You have to make sure their feet are doing 4 beats before you ask for more speed. Do not rush the process, that’s how your horse started pacing in the first place. You must teach them how to use their body to do a correct 4 beat flat walk. 
 
After 20-30 minutes, stop and rest the horse. As even flat walking is hard work when they are use to pacing. Then repeat for another 30 minutes and rest. If the horse starts pacing more or getting trippy, they are telling you they are tired. So, give more rest and go back to your slow walk till you get back to the trailer or the barn. Do not let them put their head too low because this will put more weight on their front end, and when tired any horse can trip, but pacey horses tend to drag their toes and pace more when tired, so you want to make sure they are paying attention to their feet. 
 
Repeat 3-5 times a week but doing some shorter and harder rides. Always asking for the flat walk, on the flat and on uphill. Remember you can go off trail at any time to help get your horse out of the pace and walk over any obstacles or in rough footing to help separate their legs. 
 
It may take 2-4 weeks before you notice a difference. If no improvement, you are not doing it correctly. Remember you cannot let the horse pace at all, or they will be confused. So, if you get tired and your friends talk you into going faster and you let your horse pace, or you let someone ride your horse and they let it pace, all the previous work you did will be gone and your horse will not understand. Then you will need to start the process all over again. So, just don't let them pace at all.
 
Once you can do a flat walk for most of the trail ride and stay in gait, then you can progress to your next gait. But always slow walk down the hills. But after you have slow walked for 10 minutes and flat walked for 10 minutes or more, if they are doing well and no pace, then you can now try for your next gait. It is best to try it on uphill first as it is easiest. The hills will collect the horse and help it to drive with its backend. So, keep the head down and flat walk but at each hill, keep the head down and ask for more speed. The horse will try to cheat but do not let them raise their head much. Keep asking until they go faster into a running walk or fox trot or saddle gait. Remember any faster smooth steps, tell them good job but continue up the hill then rest on the top. If you stop in the middle, it will be too hard for them to get the gait again. Rest at the top then back to flat walking until the next hill.
 
Once they can do the uphill smoothly for at least 5 trail rides, then you can try getting the gait on the flat also, but never on the downhill. So now on the flat ask for more speed, if they hard pace, stop and backup 5 steps and start again and repeat till you get a couple good steps. You can also try serpentine or leg yield or shoulder in, on the flat if they try to pace. If those fail, then time to ride in the rough footing again and try for their next gait  there instead but stop and reward when smooth and then continue on. 
 
Once they are doing better, then only serpentine or leg yield or shoulder in, when you feel them getting pacey. And only take them into the rough when all else fails. In time they will understand that if they pace, life gets harder, not easier. But this only works if your consistent and reward with rest when they do it right and give them more work when they pace. 
 
Try to only do the intermediate gait for spurts of 3-5 minutes on the flat and then back to the flat walk as they have to build up strength to hold it longer. After a couple weeks, try to add a couple more minutes and if they can do it then, in a couple more weeks add on more time and so on. But if getting worse they are telling you they are not ready to hold it.
 
Remember you are teaching them, but it is hard work for them. So, they must understand what you want, but they also have to be conditioned to hold the gait farther and longer. So, try not to get carried away and ask for too much too fast. But every couple weeks they should be getting a little better if you are riding consistently. 
 
If you ride too hard or too far, they will go back to trying to pacing as it is easier to do. And if they get too tired and start pacing a lot, they will also get trippy from being tired and dragging their toes in the pace. If that is happening, stop get off and give them a 20-minute rest or get off and walk them home.  Otherwise, some can trip and fall due to being tired. 
 
Each horse is different, and each horse will learn at a different speed, but even if they understand, some will take longer than others to figure out what to do with their feet. This is normal, so give them time, keep trying to get more, but always going back down in speed and time if they are not doing well. It will come, but you have to give them time to progress, especially if they are older and have been pacing all their life. 
 
Also be aware that the better rider you are, the easier it is to communicate to the horse and help them. Keep the reins short enough that if you half halt your horse will immediately feel it and slow down. You will not be able to correct them fast enough on a very long rein. 
 
If you do not ride well, it’s best to take some lessons and get your balance and cues better before trying to gait on the trail. And don't forget to get your saddle fitted, an ill-fitting saddle can cause many horses to pace. 
 
If you follow the program and do not rush the horse, in time they will understand and start gaiting. Each ride should be better than the previous ride and their gait should get a little better each ride. But remember never, ever, ever, let them pace again. Because if you are inconsistent, the horse will keep trying to do the easiest thing which is pace. If they never get to do it, they will try their best to stop, but if they get to pace after they tried 20 times, they will keep trying to pace, because they know when they get to 20 you will let them. 
 
Stop the pace!
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